Boston: Addis Red Sea

Contrary to popular belief, the mini-metropolis otherwise known as Boston does have more than clam chowdahs to offer. And no, I'm not referring to the hearty Italian fare at the North End or the cutting edge New American cafes on Newbury St. What I'm talking about is exotic cuisine. Exciting ethnic food that tastes like a shock, but leaves you longing for more—food that is different somehow.

Are you ready for Ethiopian?

On a pleasant Wednesday evening (low 70s, light breeze, clear skies), a friend and I boarded the T and got lost in the vast Backbay district. Now the restaurant really wasn't difficult to find but because yours truly is horrible at directions and the hostess at the restaurant wasn't of much help either, we arrived after great struggle (yes, we decided to cab a three-minute ride) with our party moods affected.

Yet, in spite of all our predisposed feelings that could bias this review, this intimate basement eatery impressed.

Most exotic restaurants boast amazing décor and succeed in creating this “exotic” atmosphere but their food, unfortunately, falls short of expectations. Addis was one of the few that delivered equal parts ambiance and culinary brilliance.

Stepping into the 2-floor underground complex, you are greeted by friendly hostesses, all fluent speakers of Ethiopian dialects, dressed in resplendent white traditional garbs. On the upper level, intricately painted animal canvases stretch along the walls as hand-woven basket tables stand. A small bar area rests on the lower level.

To personalize each seating, our table even talked to us: Presented with an exhaustive menu complete with vegetarian, vegan, and other carnivore-friendly entrees (chicken, lamb, beef, and seafood), we decided it was best to order their signatures. We started with the Sambusa, a savory pastry with a lightly fried crispy exterior and rich, soft fillings of either beef, lentils, or root vegetables.

The opposing textures were a delight to the mouth and I was pleasantly relieved that this dish didn't have any of the oily residues so often found on the surface of fried food. We chose the lentil option to balance the heavier meat entrée to come, and we were surprised by the fresh, full lentil peas within. Crispier and more delicate than an Indian samosa, the sambusa pockets burst forth with cumin, garlic, onion and hints of nutmeg.

To gain a wide variety of dishes, we ordered the very affordable Addis Red Sea Special Combo, a combination plate for two that included Doro Wot, tender slices of chicken stewed in red pepper, onions, garlic, ginger, and cardamoms; Doro Alcha, chicken cooked with a milder sauce of butter, onions, and ginger; Lega-Tibs, rich chunks of beef marinated with green peppers, rosemary, and black pepper; Gomen Wot, a diced collard vegetable dish; and a house salad, chopped tomatoes in a zesty lemon sauce.

The combo dish arrived on a large round, thin piece of flat bread on which the above stews were served upon, such that the bread acted as a serving plate. According to my friend (who watches the Food Network), it is considered bad etiquette to eat the bread plate, so do keep this in mind.

Meanwhile, thinly sliced spongy bread wraps came on a side dish, and we used these to dip into the tasty stews. Finger food had never been more fun and acceptable, but it was something about the communal spirit of sharing one plate and one table with your companion that enriched the entire experience.

After sampling each dish, I began to notice an interesting pattern in the way the food was served. Each dish was strategically placed so that their tastes directly enhanced and complimented one another. The spicy Doro Wot chicken dish, stewed in red pepper sauce, for example, was placed in the center, aligning with the tomato house salad and the Gomen Wot vegetable dish on a diagonal axis.

Had it not been for the lemon juice in the tomato house salad, I would never have noticed the subtle flavors of ginger in the doro wot. And although the gomen wot was the most disappointing dish because of its seeming blandness, it was necessary to cool the fires of the heavy spices in the doro wot. Likewise, the rich savory beef on the left was balanced by the mild silky slices of chicken simmered in a light butter and ginger sauce to the right.

Less pungent than Indian and less sharply acidic than Thai, Addis' Ethiopian cuisine was unique in its diverse layers of flavors in every dish.

The best thing? We spent only about $17 USD per person (the combo cost $24.95 and the sambusa $6.95). We were stuffed.

Addis Red Sea Restaurant: Four Stars.

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Reservations: Only if more than 2 people
Good for groups: Yes
Romantic: Yes
Quiet: Yes
In short: A wonderful cost-effective exotic dinner experience. Consider the combos.

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Addis Red Sea

544 Tremont St

Boston, MA 02116

Tel: (617) 426-8727

Mon-Fri: 5 to 11 P.M.

Sat & Sun: Noon to 11 P.M.